Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Est-ce que nous avons l'essence Français?

Translation: Do we smell French?

I know, I know, I'm still so far behind. It's been weeks and my never ending adventures paired with preparing for finals has been keeping me completely occupied.

Right now, I'm sitting at school, watching as the snow floats to the ground from the gray sky, in the largest flakes I've ever seen. It's all piled up to about 2 inches in the past two hours. I'm plugged into my iPod that's playing Christmas music, and eagerly awaiting Carly to get out of class so we can go to Starbucks down the street and sit in their big comfy chairs, enjoy the snow and study with our grande latté du caramel et noisette.

I'm beginning to get very sad about leaving Paris. I only have a little over a week left before heading to Norway to stay with Ingrid for Christmas and New Years, and then I'm off to Bordeaux. I find myself getting anxious, and trying to pack in everything I've wanted to do since I've been here and just haven't gotten around to. I feel as though I've only scratched the surface of this incredible city, and there's part of me that never wants to leave. But, at least I have these last few days to start saying au revoir à Paris, perhaps just à tout à l'heure - I know I'll be back, no doubt.

So for now, I'll try to update you all on all the traveling I've been doing since Prague...since that was around midterms and now the semester is about to end.

Fall break after midterms consisted of 10 days of freedom with no worries of school, and only an opportunity to see some parts of the world I'd always wanted to see. We started in Barcelona, a day behind schedule thanks to more grèves en Paris. Carly and I with one other girl managed to change our flights on easyjet quite easily, while our friends Austin and Alex had a little more trouble getting out of France. Alex wasn't able to get a flight until Sunday night, when Carly, myself and the third girl would have already left Barcelona. Poor Austin was trying to use his train credit and since his original direct train had been cancelled, he had to make 3 transfers and take 4 separate trains. Unfortunately, his fourth train left without him on it, just inside the French border without any more Trains leaving to Barcelona for another 24 hours. We found him a bus and so he arrived the next morning at nearly 5, completely exhausted, but happy to have a day with nearly everyone before we left for Italy.
We stayed in the wonderful Hostel Central, wandered around the city, down Las Ramblas all the way down to the harbor, drinking steins of Sangria, stuffing our faces with paella, through the tapas markets and any interesting alley ways we could find. Our full day with Austin, we hiked up to Park Guëll where we got an incredible view of the entire city. We walked back down through various other parks, to the hostel, grabbed more paella and sangria for dinner, then found our way to a bar in a random alleyway advertising 1 euro beers that provided us with a fun night with a lot of other friendly foreigners.
The next morning we walked down Las Ramblas to the market to get breakfast, to find that it was closed, being Sunday. Instead we walked across the street to a place called Chiquitos, where I had the most phenomenal breakfast in my life: Hot Chocolate (sans churros :( ), fried eggs and the most delicious chorizo in the world - not kidding. I was quite pleased when we left an hour or so later, but Barcelona was such a wonderful city, warm and buzzing with a happy lively energy, I can't wait until I have another opportunity to go back.

That night, after our 14 euro easyjet flight, Carly, myself and the third girl arrived in Milan, Italy. It was Halloween, and Carly and I both being from Santa Barbara, we were a bit anxious to see what kind of festivities we would find. Unfortunately, we found none. We checked into EuroHotel, slightly disappointed with our room (only because we had had such a wonderful one in Barcelona), ate a mediocre dinner at the restaurant the hotel recommended,and head back to the hotel with the intention of going back out to seek some Halloween fun, but discouraged by the lack of social traffic in the city, as well as coaxed by our warm and dry room in contrast to the rain outside, we instead turned on the TV and watched a Czech movie until we fell asleep.
Milan as a whole was somewhat disappointing. I was excited to come back to Italy after the first experience I had there two years ago with my cousin, Lindsay, and my grandparents, but it wasn’t living up to my memories. The next day we wandered around in the pouring rain, starting at the duomo, to the basilica and to our first enjoyable meal in Milan at – artichoke risotto and sparkling white table wine.We finished the day off with roaming around the Milano Castle gardens before heading home, stopping at a store on the way to grab some wine to help us warm up once we got back to our room. After ringing out our sopping wet socks and showering, we head back out on the town for dinner and hoping to find some more nightlife – apparently it hardly exists in the city. Dinner, however, was delicious. We found a little place that didn’t have a sign outside, and the menus only said “menu” on them, so we never learned its name. We shared a bottle of the house chianti and Carly and I shared the moment of trying octopus for the first time. The waiter didn’t speak English at all, so with the tiny bit of Italian I could muster and mix with some French, we were able to order and get by in small conversation. He ended up thinking that we were French, which was quite entertaining for all of us – maybe we don’t seem so American anymore, France must have been rubbing off on us more than we thought.

Despite a couple good meals and the beautiful Palace grounds, Milan was overall quite disappointing and we couldn’t have been happier to get on the train to Bologna. We arrived in the small town in the middle of the afternoon. We walked into our hotel, the Caravaggio, and were welcomed by a smiling older man who didn’t speak a single word of English. Through hand gestures and easy vocabulary, he was able to help us understand him as he explained the rules and the amenities of the hotel as well as oriented us in relation to the rest of the town.
We weren’t very far from the old town center, so we began walking around until we got hungry for dinner, which wasn’t very long. By seven in the evening we began desperately searching for a restaurant, any restaurant – so long as it was cheap…ish. Apparently no restaurants open for dinner in Bologna until 8 pm or later. Everyone seemed to go out for drinks and appetizers, but no real food, I wanted a huge plate of gluten free pasta, or more risotto, or maybe a steak, as well as the rest of the cow. We finally spotted some red and white-checkered tables on a porch down a small alley – it was open, it was cheap…ish and we were starving. Our waiter was tall and thin, looked kind of like that guy from The Pianist. We ordered our pastas, and my beef and red wine risotto, and the least expensive bottle of wine but no water – our waiters seemed to like us for that. Being on the budget we were on, we always had to choose wine or water, never both as they generally cost the same amount. Our meals were delicious, but probably about a quarter of the size we were expecting. When we had finally paid and left the restaurant, we started looking for a kebap shop to get some cheap french fries or something to fill us up. In the search, we stumbled upon a small bar called The Sherlock Holmes, where three guys and a girl were standing outside, trying to convince us to come inside. Only one of them spoke English and translated for everyone else, they all seemed nice enough, and the sign said they had karaoke, so we figured we’d give it a try. The girl ended up being the bartender, and she was absolutely adorable. She made us a round of drinks, 5 euro each, and for just one euro more, we could help ourselves to the appetizer bar… PERFECT. We ended up staying there for a couple hours before we head back to our room to sleep.
The next day we didn’t waste any time before exploring the city. We head to the free medieval museum, where we ran into more Italians who were curious about our origins – one man stopped me and asked me if I was something that sounded like Scandinavian. When I gave him a confused look, he said “Icelandic”, I laughed and shook my head no. Guess number 3 – “AMERICANO!” Si, si, I am Americano. Guess we blend in better than most Americans, ha!
After the museum, and a church across the street (inside of which we got hassled by a beggar), we began again our search was food. You’d think in Italy it wouldn’t be so hard to find a restaurant, but again, we wandered for quite a while before we found one and no longer cared what was on the menu or really how much it cost. After lunch we climbed the tower, which probably wasn’t a smart thing to do on a full stomach on account of the millions of stairs, but the view was absolutely incredible and worth the work out.
That night we went to dinner at a place that we thought we knew the name of since we stole a sugar packet, but being that there are four names on the sugar packet, I’m not quite sure which one it really is. But it was good, delicious actually. Our waiter was about our age and spoke English, which helped us out a lot. He made sure we had a good meal, helped us to order a yummy, inexpensive wine, an appetizer of mozzarella and proscuitto since the melon we wanted was out of season, and he took my gluten free pasta and turned it into “the best pasta the chefs could make” – more seafood, but it was quite delicious.For dessert I ordered a crème caramel, which he brought out with a little message written on it; “u’r sweeter than this”. He was very sweet, but it was quite awkward when he picked my my licked-clean plate, then asked if it was legible.
We left the restaurant and head back to the Sherlock Holmes Bar to meet some of the people we had met the night before. We ordered a round of drinks and planned on going to a club down the street, but we never made it there. Instead we stayed at the bar until it closed waiting for more people to show up. Christiano didn’t speak a word of English, or any other language besides Italian for that matter. After being around him for a little while though, we were able to work out various hand gestures and putting “o” at the end of some French and Spanish words we were able to communicate with him – most of the time. One of the bar tenders told us that he sung very well, so we began pleading him to sing for us, which of course he refused. Carly made a deal with him, that if she sang, he would sing. Since the bar was empty by then, they turned off the music, and Carly pulled up “What’s Up” by Four Non Blondes on youtube and let it rip. The video is quite hilarious since Carly is quite the singer. However, Christiano never did sing.

The next morning we continued our journey on to Venice, the last leg of our fall break trip. We had only been in our room at the Ca’ Contarini a few minutes before a random boy came barging in, saying that he had been in our room the night before and he was missing some clothes. He just waltzed right on in, no excusing himself, no apologies, and helped himself to looking under then beds, in the drawers – we just kind of stood there flabbergasted, but it was hilarious. He abruptly left the room as soon as he had welcomed himself in, and we watched as his tall gangly figure sped back down the stairs. We called after him, laughing, and asked what his name was – Daniel. A few minutes later down in the kitchen, I ran into him again. He was sitting at the dinner table with another guy, an American, also named Daniel. For the rest of our stay there we referred to them in the order that we met them. Ginger Aussie Daniel that barged into our room was deemed Daniel #1, while the American Daniel from Brown, studying in Prague was Daniel #2.
With the Daniels, and a few other people we ran into from ACCENT we explored nearly every inch of Venice’s winding alleyways and waterways. 6 of us split a gondola ride with one of the most awesome gondoliers ever, though he didn’t sing like I was hoping. We spent a lot of money on food, not knowing about the cover charge that most restaurants charge on top of a service fee. After that lesson we all went crazy in a grocery store and cooked a feast together in the tiny hostel kitchen, after which followed one of the most epic nights of my life.
The Daniels and our group were sitting on the beds in our room. I had had to wrestle my pillow away from Daniel #2, which got me thinking – I want to go outside and hit random Italians with my pillow, just to see what would happen. When I verbalized the idea, Daniel #1 pointed out that it probably wouldn’t be a good idea to hit random Italians…but we could hit each other.
The group of us began walking towards San Marco’s square, each armed with out hostel pillows.At each smaller square we would break out into a full on pillow fight, laughing hysterically, unable to believe how immature we were being, but how fun and ridiculous it was at the same time. We drew in crowds of people, who would cheer us on and take videos. In one of the bigger fights, two older men in suits and smoking cigars joined in, trying to grab one of our pillows so they could go after someone. There was also a girl about our age coming home from the bars dressed in nice clothes and stiletto heels who managed to wrestle a pillow from someone and come after me. We had a good go at each other, laughing but still throwing all we had behind each swing – eventually we both got tired and shook hands to make a truce and exchange names and a laugh. A minute later I lent her my pillow while I caught my breath, and watched as she went after 6 foot something Kyle, who was running away from her and her stiletto ferocity, squealing.

Our 10 days were packed with adventure and story after story, but I was so incredibly happy to come home to Paris. I guess it had started to grow on me a little bit.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Miluju Praha!

Translation: I love Prague! (ok, it's Czech, not French so I'll let you off easy this time)

Alright, I know I have quite a bit of catching up to do since it's been a few weeks since I've written. Traveling without a computer and studying for midterms preventing from sitting down and writing about my adventures, but it's ok! I'll fill ya'll in.

Praha. (Sigh). Oh how I miss it; it really was like a fairy tale with autumn forests and gorgeous castle reflecting in the river that winds through the city. My friend Astrid and I did absolutely no research on Prague before we arrived. It took us quite a bit longer to get there than we expected on account of more grèves in France, but eventually we made it. We got off the plane and realized how little we actually knew about the city; we didn't have any crown, only euro, and we knew that we needed to get to metro A, but it didn't connect to the airport. We were standing outside, trying to read a large czech map behind glass covered in smudged finger prints when a couple offered to help us. They were from Prague, and not only showed us on the map where to go, but told us what bus to take and gave us coins to buy our tickets since our exchanged 20 euros had given us two 200 crown notes.
We walked down the same street a few times before finding our hostel, Hostel Rosemary, a very clean and friendly establishment that went over with Astrid and I quite well for our first hostel experience. The man at the front desk was was friendly and gave us maps and oriented us as well as circled the places in the city we would want to visit, and showed us to our room. We learned that a lot of what happens in a hostel though depends on the people that are staying there as well, more so than on the conditions of the building itself. Astrid and I were staying in the 14 bed unisex dorm complete with a main room with 3 bunk beds, a smaller connecting room with another 3 bunk beds, and two single beds in a loft. We took the loft since it was available and provided a little more privacy. In the dorm there was an older man probably in his 40's who seemed to never leave his top bunk in the corner. There was also a russian couple and 3 Italian young men who seemed to be a little over-excited by my blonde hair all staying in the smaller room. My locker happened to be in the smaller room, so when I first went inside to lock up my pack, one of the Italians offered his hand, "Ciao! My name iz Daveeed. What iz yourz?" I introduced myself and talked very little about where each of us were from before Astrid and I left to grab some dinner and then drinks with a friend of a friend.
The two of us wandered through tiny cobblestone streets, slightly disturbed by the somewhat frightening-looking marionettes that hung in almost every window, lusting after funny furry hats, and trying to decide which door man we should believe had the best cheap food. We ended up at a pub, the waiter greeted us "Ahoj!" (pronounced A-hoy!, like a pirate, A-hoy matey!), and seated us at a bar table. Minutes later we were being served massive plates of food costing only 150 crown, mine consisting of a mountain of french fries and a large grilled chicken breast smothered in creamed spinach - delicious - salty, but delicious.
After dinner we wandered more about the city before getting a call from Joe, the son of my mom's boss who is studying abroad in Prague this semester from Cal Poly SLO. "Where are you?" he asked, "Uhhhh, I'm on a bridge...?" Apparently, there are a lot of bridges in Prague, I had to find one named Charles.
Astrid and I were browsing through a souvenir shop when I heard a group of rambunctious boys joking about themselves, "how are we gonna find her dude?", "just yell out her name, ha!", "Kellynnnn! KELLYNNNNN!"
-"Uhh, Joe?"
Slightly embarrassed, Joe and his 3 friends turned around and we all began to laugh and shook hands. I assumed we weren't going to far since none of them were wearing jackets in the 30, maybe 20-something degree weather, but I guess coats just aren't fashionable in Prague at night. After walking for about 10 minutes and getting acquainted with one another, we arrived at a bar. I walked inside to find older and angry-looking eastern-european men glaring at me behind their individual clouds of cigarette smoke - where the heck were they taking us? Down a flight of stairs, across a billiards room and through a narrow brick hallway underground and we found ourselves at the bar. Apparently the bar was an old underground communist hideout - guess it would make sense. Parting the now prevalent blanket of smoke we walked through the bar and sat down at a table together then ordered bahama mama's from the hilarious blonde waitress. We talked about our various study abroad programs and home since Joe was from Lafayette, and about all the traveling we had done and were planning to do, but since we were all tired, and the boys were leaving for a trip the next morning, we all said goodbye and Astrid and I head back to the hostel.
The next morning we woke up to the alarm on my phone, but allowed ourselves to lazily lay in bed while slowly regaining consciousness. I rolled over a few minutes later to see what time it was and noticed a small sheet of graph paper lying on top of my things next to my bed.Hmm, what is this? I turned it over, to find "I >that woke me up. "ASTRID! ASTRIDDDDD! .......ASTRID!" I hissed across our loft, hoping to gain her attention but no one else's. It took a second for her sleepy vision to focus, but then her eyes grew wide and she had to stifle a laugh.
We waited for the room to get quiet again in order to avoid Daveeed from Naples who we assumed was guilty of writing the love note. Heading towards the old town center, Astrid was craving coffee, Starbucks more specifically, and we had seen one the previous nights in one of the winding alley-ways. Before we could find the Starbucks however, we stumbled upon our new morning tradition, Coffee Heaven.Get the elephant latte or the coconut white chocolate mocha - it literally is heaven. We took our delicious drinks with us as we began our adventure through the charming fairy tale city for the first time in day light.
Through the old town center to the jewish district, across the river to the John Lennon "Imagine" wall and a pleasant place near by for a proper czech lunch of delicious sausage, a vinegar mustard and country potatoes; absolutely scrumptious. After lunch, up the mountain to the castle, through the amazing cathedral and running on the grass to play in the gold leaves despite the posted pictures of shoes on grass in a red circle with a line through it and the guard whom we waited for to walk behind some other trees further away.
We walked back down the mountain, back across the Charles bridge (now that we knew where it was and what it was), and head back to Rosemary for some down time before going to dinner and out and about on the town again.
We seemed to be the only two people in our dorm, and I'm sure it looked empty once we were up in our loft area because of what happened next. Astrid was napping and I was reading when I heard someone come in the room, but I didn't really pay any attention to it. They had gone into the smaller room where my locker was and thank goodness I didn't need anything out of it because soon we heard one of the bunk beds start squeaking. Astrid and I looked at each other quizzically - why was a bed squeaking? Then we started hearing some other noises... they could have at least closed the door! Astrid starting coughing loudly, hoping they'd get the hint, we'd move around trying to make it apparent that they weren't the only people in the dorm, we'd laugh or talk - get the hint! It was a bit late, but eventually I remembered that I had a farting application on my iPhone. Hitting number 7 once was all it took - the bed squeaking stopped and Astrid and I fell into a fit of ridiculous laughter. The situation became even more hilarious because Astrid thought that I had actually farted because she hadn't noticed I had pulled out my phone. Why I didn't think of it sooner is beyond me, but now I know the secret to solve nearly any problem I come across in a hostel.

That night we went to dinner at an Indian restaurant down the street from Rosemary. I haven't eaten a whole lot of Indian food on account of my weak tongue when it comes to spicy-ness, however most of my friends are all about it, so I gave it a try. I ordered something familiar, a chicken dish that I had has before, however the curry rice was more like fire rice. I noticed that if I ate it really fast it wouldn't burn so badly, so I shoveled it all in as fast as I could. Astrid was kind enough to let me sip her unpleasantly-salty-yogurt-drink-thing and eat some of her plain basmati rice she hadn't finished.

After dinner we wandered around town more, back through old town square where we found some funny furry hats that we couldn't pass up, especially with how freaking cold out it was. With our new matching hats, we were back in the alleyways, looking more like locals and happy about it. The people in Prague were the nicest and most friendly I've come upon so far in all my travels through Europe, I really wouldn't mind moving there to teach English, even if it just is an excuse to wear my funny furry hat everyday.

The next morning we woke up at a reasonable hour and prepared ourselves to walk everywhere. We were in love with our fairy tale city, and we wanted to see every inch of it. Passing the Charles bridge, we stayed on our side of the river and walked upstream to find our way to the dancing house. I don't really know anything about it, other than it's amazing. If you google Prague images, it's one of the first things that comes up, and is such a popular tourist attraction plainly because of it's incredible architecture. All of the architecture in the town however is amazing; it ended up taking Astrid and I a lot longer to get to the dancing house because we would stop in front of every apartment building we passed to stare at the various statues and decorations. Each one was so different and expressive, yet somehow they all worked together harmoniously for the individual building, as well as the rest on the street. It was incredible.

Then we crossed the river - we wanted to find some place really authentic for lunch, so we kept walking away from the river and upstream, only to find ourselves at scary looking McDonalds - we weren't in fairy tale land anymore. We decided to head back but were starving and were able to find a restaurant cafe that was quite delicious and was very helpful when it came to catering my celiac needs. I enjoyed a ham and cheese omelet with a side of fruit, a novel concept in Prague apparently as there was just a banana, a sliced apple and peeled orange awkwardly piled on a small plate.

Very full from lunch, we strolled back to the right side of the river. In the distance we could see some ruins perched on a hill, a church or maybe a castle? We didn't know but it looked cool enough to keep heading further away from the center of town. On the way we came across a farmers market on the riverbank. All the food looked amazing - why had I eaten an omelet? Why couldn't I be hungry again? But then I spotted something that I could maybe manage. There was a small cart next to the water with two men cutting whole raw potatoes into spirals then frying them. They looked and smelled delicious, the perfect amount of crunch but were still warm and chewy in the middle, like potato chips but all still connected - potato spiralies.Since it was only 40 crown for a paper cone full, Astrid and I handed over the coins and walked away with our salted coin of scrumptious spiralies. Though delicious, it probably wasn't such a good idea to force more food into my full stomach on account of the hike we had ahead of us to the ruins on the hill.

We arrived at the top, breathing heavily, but soon amazed by the view. You could see all of Prague in its perfection. The sunshine was reflecting off the river, making the sailboats look as if they were dancing, the trees of the forest all the vibrant reds browns deep greens and gold of fall, surrounding the ancient but charming brick buildings of the city. It was absolutely beautiful.

We were tired from walking, but regardless we hiked back down, followed the river downstream and crossed it, then hiked back up to the castle to watch the sunset and the lights come on in the city. beautiful variations of pink streaked the sky, bleeding from the mountains and slowly bringing darkness over the river and town. Once the darkness came, the cold came along with it - not that it wasn't already cold. We head back down to eat dinner and rest a little at the hostel before going out.

That night we found ourselves at the "largest club in eastern europe", consisting of 5 different floors, all of which were a different theme. There was "radio hits" and "dance music", "oldies music", "chill out music", and the best and most politically incorrect floor, "black music", referring to rap, hip hop and R&B. This floor seemed to be the most popular, decked with light-show walls, a fog machine, strobe lights and a sunken dance floor. My favorite floor though had to be "Oldies", simply because they played 70's and 80's music and they had a floor that lit up in colored cubes so that you felt like you were in Saturday Night Fever. The best part had to be the 60 year old women dancing their hearts out, singing along in horrible accents, while the teen and 20 something boys looked on in fear of being chosen as a dance partner. The videos are hilarious.

The next morning was our last in Prague. For the last time we went to Coffee Heaven. For the last time we walked through the old town center and watched our favorite old man sing and dance and play either the saxophone or trumpet. It was sad. We went back to the John Lennon wall since the first time the lighting for pictures was impossible, then spent 200 crown on a fixed lunch near by with delicious vegetable soup and a piece of turkey barely bigger than my thumb served on lettuce - needless to say not enough. Then we wandered through the rest of the city we hadn't seen, including a beer garden with another incredible view of the city (but no beer), and the National Museum which had been next to our hostel the entire time and we didn't even know it (we learned on this trip that it's important to turn around and look behind you).

Even though we said goodbye to Prague, our adventure was far from over. Our flight was delayed about an hour, landing us in Paris at about 12:30 am, just in time for all the buses and the RER to stop running. Perfect. We had met a group of french guys while waiting for our delayed plane in Prague, they had told us that the RER ran until 2 am, and though we should have known better having lived in Paris for 2 and a half months now, we believed them. We ran off the plane, through the terminals, following the signs to the RER. One terminal was closed so we were forced to go outside, but it's ok, we'll just go back inside at the next one - wrong. The next terminal didn't exist. We somehow had to find a way across the winding overpasses - usually you would go underground or take a shuttle - the French guys we were with just started running. Astrid and I looked at each other, shrugged; we might as well run too. Across a curving overpass, over a gate, across a street to another locked terminal - shoot. Turn around, run back across the street, back over the gate, down the exit driveway into the parking garage, around a corner, up a service staircase, down two escalators to the level of train platforms: RER closed. We knew that guy was lying when he said it was open until 2:30; they must not be from Paris.

Since cabs cost about 50 euro into Paris, and Astrid and I were heading in different directions and no one was going to my district to share a cab with, we decided to camp out in CDG. Now inside the airport again, we wandered through the unlit terminals, waving to the workers as they passed us on their floor polishing cars, until we made our way back to terminal 2B. We set an alarm for 4:30 am and tried to get comfortable on the chairs; back pack on against one arm rest, butt in the seat, knees bent over the next arm rest, hat covering my face in attempt to block out the annoying florescent lights. After about an hour, I pushed my hat up to see Astrid looking at me, exhausted and delirious, she had an idea. There was a restaurant across from us which was closed, but outside of it's main gate they had a small patio area that blocked off by wooden partitions and tall plastic plants. There was a man in there who had pushed chairs together to make a bed and seemed to be sleeping quite comfortably - it was brilliant idea. After fighting my way through the plastic forest, I helped Astrid as we flipped chairs from their upside down position on the tables and pushed them against a wall- voila, our chair fort! We put on a few more layers, cuddled our bags and slept with our funny furry hats over our faces until my alarm went off at 4:30 am and we made our way home on the first RER.

Yay for chair forts in Charles! - not. At least it was an adventure all the same.